woodnstuff.ca: first run

You are now the proud owner of a Listeroid, you have just broken it out of the wooden box (now wasn't that fun!) and you are wondering what to do next.

These engines are NOT Hondas - they are as delivered from the factory and may need some attention prior to running. Always check that fuel racks are opening and closing freely, if they do not FIND OUT WHY and FIX IT. The Indian manufacturers just LOVE green paint - the engines are bolted to the shipping box bottom and then sprayed with paint - which gets into all the moving parts areas. Take a bit of time and clean them out - your engine will be all the happier if you do these simple things.

Well, first of all, a couple of words of warning. This is an open flywheel engine and as such is a dangerous machine. If you are not sure of your capabilities or are unsure or afraid of open rapidly moving parts, DO NOT START THE ENGINE. It is a powerful machine that demands respect and attention - do not attempt to start it if you have consumed alcohol or are very tired. Let it stand in the corner as an unusual conversation piece. IF you are going to fire it up, make sure ALL required guards are in place and that you are wearing suitable clothing. Obviously, loose clothing such as scarves and tie are NOT recommended anywhere near a rotating wheel.

Having said that, if you are intent on making the engine run, there are a few things you need to do first:

Physically check the engine over, make sure all of the parts are connected (there shouldn't be anything "just hanging around") make yourself familiar with the fuel rack (how it turns on and off) and the compression release lever. READ THE BOOK to make sure you can identify and locate parts it refers to. Especially note where the fuel rack lever is and how to turn it on and off. Follow any additional instructions the book gives you.

Open up the access hatch to the crankcase - have a GOOD look around inside, clean off any residual oil (the engine was test fired at the factory) and make sure there is no sand or other debris in the crankcase. Check the rotation of the crankshaft and camshaft, are they moving easily in relation to one another?

Check the movement of the main bearings - are they moving easily and smoothly? If so, fill the crankcase up to the recommended level with new 30 weight oil, replace the crankcase cover.

Install the mufflers and air filter that came with the motor (you will probably be changing these out later, so don't worry too much about them)

Have a good look at the start handle. Note the angled pin that intrudes into the centre hole of the handle. Check this pin and ensure that it moves up and down freely against its spring. THIS IS IMPORTANT - if the pin will not move freely, it will get caught when starting the engine. If you have to, scrape away the paint and oil the pin until it does move easily.

Take off the top shield on the engine - there will be a large metal or plastic nut on top of the engine, unscrew this and removed the shield - you may need to tap it lightly to break the paint free.

WITHOUT turning on the fuel rack, note the direction of rotation of the engine (it is shown on one of the flywheels), put the start handle on the crankshaft end and try to turn the engine in the indicated direction of rotation - if all you hear is a clicking sound and the handle rotates around the shaft, you are at the wrong side of the engine.

O.K., now you have the start handle on the correct side, turn the engine over SLOWLY and note the rise and fall of the push rods and valves (At this point you should still have the compression release engaged so you are not turning the engine against compression - that comes in a minute!) LISTEN to the sounds the engine is making - you should be able to hear a "clink" as the injector fires. Watch as the push rods fall - are the lifters (at the bottom of the push rods) going all the way down? (Take the compression release off to check this - you will note how much resistance there is when you turn the engine now!) If not there is probably a bit of paint getting in the way - clean it off and try again. When you are satisfied, slip the compression release lever back under the exhaust valve lifter.

Put some fuel in the tank, open up the fuel cock under the fuel tank. Open up the fuel rack. Look at the injector pump - on the inside face you will see a large screw head - unscrew that almost all of the way out (don't worry if it comes right out, you are not going to hurt anything except you may have a fuel leak on the floor) When fuel is flowing freely out of that hole (no bubbles) tighten up the screw again (not too tight, but well seated) so there is no leak.

Next, unfasten the nut from the top of the injector pump that has the tube in it going to the injector. Turn over the engine and wait until you see an equal volume of fuel pumping out of the fuel pump as is activated when you turn the engine (This only happens when the fuel cam pushes on the fuel pump assembly, every couple of turns of the engine). Screw the nut back onto the top of the fuel pump, then unscrew the other end where it is attached to the injector. Again, turn the engine over until you see fuel being ejected from the open end of this tube. As you are turning the engine, re-tighten this nut firmly onto the injector. Congratulations, you have just primed the fuel system! Turn off the fuel rack.

Look at the rocker arms - see that hole in the centre? Squirt a couple of shots of oil into it with the handy oil can that came with the engine. This will lubricate the rockers - there is no other oil getting to that area so it needs to be done every day or so of running.

O.K., now you are ready to try your first run. Again, check how the start handle turns the engine and note what happens when you stop cranking - the crankshaft will continue to rotate, but the handle will stay still in your hand. Remember this!

Make sure there is nothing in the area that could get caught in the engine when it starts.

It may be best, at first, to have two people present when you start the engine - one to do the actual cranking, the other to flick off the fuel rack lever and the compression release. As you get more used to it, you will be able to do this alone.

Make sure the fuel rack is closed up (by lifting the lever - you don't want to flood the engine)

Start turning the handle on the crankshaft and build up to a reasonable speed, when you are there have your assistant open up the fuel rack then move the compression release lever out of the way as you continue cranking. You will feel the compression of the engine as you are cranking now, but the engine should fire up quite quickly. KEEP HOLD OF THE START HANDLE and just "walk" it off the crankshaft - not nearly as scary as it sounds! (If you let it go it will spin with the engine and could cause severe damage to shinbones etc!)
The engine should come up to operating speed quite quickly then run evenly at that speed, with a little variance either way. 650 rpm's (or 850 or 1,000 in the bigger engines) is quite slow but seems to be fast when looking at an open flywheel. If you have no idea of what 650 rpm looks like, DON'T START THE ENGINE.

If there is excessive vibration or the engine is moving around, close off the fuel rack and the engine will stop. Don't forget, at this point you probably have not installed a cooling system, so don't run it for very long anyway, just a few seconds. There will be some vibration - these are not Rolls-Royce engines, they are a basic form of power and are not as well balanced as modern units.